TRAVEL AROUND GEORGIA
Gergeti Trinity Church with Mount Kazbek behind it

Guides

Tbilisi to Kazbegi on the Georgian Military Road

Stepantsminda, better known as Kazbegi, lies about 150 km north of Tbilisi. Without stops the drive takes 2.5 to 3 hours. There is a lot to see on the way, though, so it is worth giving it a whole day.

The Georgian Military Road

The Georgian Military Road (the S3, also signed E117) leads to Kazbegi. From Tbilisi it runs past Mtskheta and along the Zhinvali Reservoir. Then it climbs to Gudauri and the Jvari Pass (2,379 m) and drops into the Terek valley to Stepantsminda. Beyond the town it continues to the Russian border at Upper Lars.

The road is paved all the way. After Gudauri come the hairpins, and often a line of trucks heading for the border. Driving slowly here is perfectly normal.

Stops on the way

Distances from Tbilisi are approximate, as sources differ by 5 to 10 km.

  • Zhinvali Reservoir, 60 to 70 km. Turquoise water and viewpoints right by the road.
  • Ananuri Fortress, about 70 km. A 17th-century fortress with two churches above the reservoir. It is the main stop of the drive.
  • Pasanauri, about 90 km. Locals say khinkali were invented in this village. It is a good place for lunch.
  • Gudauri, about 120 km and 2,200 m up. The ski resort is busy with skiers all winter.
  • Russia-Georgia Friendship Monument, about 125 km. A 1983 viewpoint with a mosaic above the gorge. Paragliders take off nearby.
  • Jvari Pass, 2,379 m. This is the highest point of the road.
  • Kobi travertines, just after the pass. Orange mineral-spring terraces right by the road.

What to see in Kazbegi

Gergeti Trinity Church (14th century) in front of Mount Kazbek is the classic postcard view of Georgia. A paved road of about 6 km leads up to it. In dry weather an ordinary car drives to the car park by the church. In snow or ice people go up by local 4x4 or on foot. On foot the climb takes an hour to an hour and a half, about 450 m up. Entry is free. Women should cover their hair and wear a skirt, and wraps are usually handed out at the door.

If you have time left, drive into the Dariali Gorge to the monastery by the border, about 10 km from Stepantsminda. You can also walk to the Gveleti waterfall, about 3.5 km there and back. Or head to the Juta valley. The road is paved only as far as the village of Sno and is gravel after that, and since June 2025 the last 2.6 km has been closed to cars. Kazbegi National Park has no entrance fee.

By marshrutka or with a driver

Marshrutkas (minibuses) to Stepantsminda leave Didube bus station, next to Didube metro, about once an hour from 8:00 to 19:00. A ticket costs about 20 GEL and the ride takes 2.5 to 3.5 hours. The downside is that the minibus does not stop at the sights.

With a car and driver you stop wherever you like and can be back in Tbilisi the same evening. Our Tbilisi to Kazbegi transfer has a fixed price per car. The Georgian Military Road tour includes every stop in this guide.

When the road closes in winter

In winter the section between Gudauri and Kobi over the Jvari Pass is closed whenever the avalanche risk is high. Sometimes it stays closed for several days in a row. Trucks are usually stopped first, then all traffic. A bypass with a tunnel from Kvesheti to Kobi is being built, but its opening has been postponed more than once.

From December to March, check the road before setting out. The Roads Department of Georgia posts notices on georoad.ge and its Facebook page, and there is news on 1tv.ge. Our drivers watch the road too and will tell you if the trip is better moved to another day.

Questions and answers

How long is the drive from Tbilisi to Kazbegi?

About 150 km and 2.5 to 3 hours without stops. With stops at Ananuri, Gudauri and the pass, one way takes 4 to 5 hours.

Can I visit Kazbegi as a day trip from Tbilisi?

Yes, it is one of the most popular day trips from Tbilisi. Leave in the morning so there is time to go up to Gergeti and be back before dark.

Is the road to Kazbegi open in winter?

Usually yes, but the section over the Jvari Pass closes when the avalanche risk is high. Check the Roads Department of Georgia before you leave.

Do I need a 4x4 to reach Gergeti Trinity Church?

Not in dry weather. A paved road leads to the church and an ordinary car drives up to the car park. In snow or ice people go up by local 4x4 or on foot.

Plan the trip

The transfer and the tour from this article, at a fixed price per car. Questions go to WhatsApp or Telegram.